French Connect

Espadrille King Andre Assous Turned A Classic French Footnote Into An American Sucess Story.

Source: Footwear News
Publication Date: 12/08/2003
Author: Schneider-Levy, Barbara
COPYRIGHT 2003 Fairchild Publications, Inc.



Whenever Jan Friedman, buyer for Cedarhurst, N.Y.-based Jildor Shoes, thinks espadrilles, he thinks Andre Assous -- and he's not alone. Assous, who has been the reigning king of espadrilles for nearly 25 years, has done business with high-profile retailers from Nordstrom to Boca Raton, Fla.-based Dolly Duz, and just about everyone in between.

Although Assous' name has become synonymous with espadrilles over the years, the designer admitted that his entree into the shoe industry was a bit of a fluke. In 1969, France-born Assous, a civil engineer, came to the United States with his wife and children in order to explore new opportunities. The family settled in California, where he did everything from importing 10-speed bicycles to serving as a marketing manager for Air France.

Through a contact at the French Consular's office in Los Angeles, Assous heard of a French manufacturer who wanted to import espadrilles. What Assous didn't realize at the time was that a tenant in his apartment complex was a buyer at the now-defunct department store, Bullock's. During a random poolside chat, Assous learned that Bullock's had just sold 300 pairs of espadrilles from a New York resource by the name of Jacques Cohen.

In just minutes, Assous was back at his apartment to grab the espadrille and show it to the buyer. Practically on the spot, an order was placed for 2,000 pairs. Brought together by their espadrille connections, it wasn't long before Assous and Cohen joined forces, a partnership that would last until 1979, when Assous formed his own New York-based company, Andre Assous Inc., of which he is president.

According to Assous, 1996 marked the pinnacle of his espadrille business -- selling a record 950,000 pairs -- a category that now accounts for about 35 percent of sales. But, he said he will never forget the day that sent him and Cohen into espadrille heaven -- an order from the former U.S. Shoe for 200,000 pairs to be sold under its Pappagallo brand. While Assous' branded espadrilles continue to be prominent, the designer has been a major player in the private-label business as well, working with key retailers such as J. Crew and Gap. He also has a roster of designers under his belt, whose names he has kept hush-hush. "I've sold hundreds of thousands of pairs," said Assous about the category which has successfully carried him through more than three decades in the industry.

Today, Assous' espadrille business is rivaled by his Featherweights line, a women's comfort collection. In addition to espadrilles, the designer offers a complete wardrobe of looks under the Andre Assous label that includes wedges, sandals, skimmers and mules, all done in soft, supple leathers in a broad color palette, in addition to a selection of bags. According to Scott Marcus, owner of Dolly Duz, who has been doing business with Assous for more than a decade, "Andre took what the espadrille was and evolved it into Featherweights. How do you broaden a category? He did. They're new versions of the espadrille. They're spectacular. They're lifestyle dressing for his customer."

Like Marcus, Jildor's Friedman is an Assous fan. "Andre's known for his espadrilles and casuals. He's dominated the market. Whenever we think of this category of footwear, we go straight to him. He's never disappointed us. We think espadrilles. We think Andre."

Marcus and Friedman are just two of Assous' 400 satisfied customers, a list that includes independents as well as Federated Stores nationwide. And, the enthusiasm continues at the consumer level. Personal appearances at stores such as Dillard's and the former Jacobson's, had consumers lining up to meet the man behind the espadrilles. "I made lots of personal appearances," recalled Assous. "I liked it. It promoted the business."

While Assous appreciates the support of department stores, he maintains a deep affection for the independent retailer. "Independents stick with you," he said. "They love talking to me as owner and designer of the company. Customers like Jildor and Dolly Duz are loyal customers. They care about buying shoes, something you don't have in department stores."

In fact, Assous' own son, Philippe David, owns a shoe store under his name in Los Angeles, in addition to assisting in public relations efforts for his father's company. Despite the demise of prestige accounts such as Jacobson's and Bullock's, and the rise of imports from China, Assous has managed to survive by closely following consumer buying habits. "Today's consumer likes bargains," he said. "They're waiting for sales. Lots of outlets have opened over the last 15 years."

But while price is an important consideration in buying decisions, Assous realized early on that comfort was picking up momentum. "I introduced Featherweights in the early '80s," he said. "Even my espadrilles are padded."

Assous' business savvy, coupled with his good nature, have earned him a long list of industry friends. One of those is FFANY CEO Joe Moore, who described Assous, FFANY's current vice chairman, as, "extremely loyal, very supportive, and always available," when it comes to assisting the organization as well as donating footwear to its yearly Shoes on Sale event. "He's been a big fan and supporter of the cause," said Moore. "He's a true gentleman -- a very generous person and a nice guy."

After more than three decades in the business, Assous isn't about to throw in the shoe any time soon. In fact, he is set to launch a companion men's line under the Featherweights label for fall '04.

"The shoe business has given me a good life," he said.